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This Project was completed in Just two days.
Removed and hauled away 7 Ton of Sand Concrete and Dirt.
430 Sq/Ft Brick Pavers Weighing over 5 Tons
4 Tons of Concrete Base
200 Lbs of Sand
15 Gallons of Mixed Sealer
Total Job Cost Including Materials was
Excavation, Pavers and install $3655.00
Sealing the Brick Pavers $301.00
Thank you Sonny...
Here Ronnie is compacting the Concrete Base to stop it from settling over time. By compacting the Concrete Base it almost turns it into hardened concrete. Its hard enough to walk on or even drive on. This is the final process of our base for the Brick Pavers.
Here we are adding 3-4 inches of Concrete Base. Concrete base screenings are made from recycled concrete. (from the driveways and walkways we remove everyday)
(This Project Took 4 Tons of Concrete Base)
This is what the brick pavers will be laid on. Base makes the patio area stable and is workable enough to be compacted and graded to ensure the correct pitch for water flow.
Get Educated on Brick Pavers. This page is going to take you step by step for a small job we did for Sonny.
By seeing how Brick Pavers are laid and the steps needed to ensure they will last their lifetime we are hoping that it will help you understand the work involved and knowledge needed to complete a brick paver job.
Well after a light sweep this is the final product until we come back to seal the brick pavers.
You may notice we have a little access sand in the joints. Since Sonny wanted his new patio to stay clean and the sand to stay locked in he Opted to have them sealed. Sealing is an additional cost of $0.70 per Sq/Ft (for new pavers)When we come back we will adjust sand levels, Sweep access sand and Seal.
Above we are first dry sweeping the sand into the joints to fill the interlocking gaps in the Brick Pavers. After we sweep in the dry sand we will then add water to help drag the sand under the pavers and down the joints. this is the final locking process to secure the brick pavers and make sure they are made to last.
Here we have completed Grading and checking the proper pitch. This is the final step before we start to lay brick. Having the correct pitch will make sure any water will be directed and ran away from any permanent structures. (keeps the water out of your house and off the patio)
Florida State Certified Builders License - CBC1261248
Now we are doing our final compacting using sand as a buffer so we do not scratch the brick pavers. Doing this we help set the bricks in place and make sure they are level without any uneven edges. It is often a over looked step that most people see as not needed. We like to take as many extra steps we can to help extend the life of your pavers.
We waited the 2 weeks to allow the internal moisture to escape the new pavers. Doing this will allow the Seal N Lock Sealer penetrate and giving the paver sealer more life.
Step 1 : Time to Dig
Remove Existing Concrete and Excavate 4-5 inches of dirt.
Below you will see the customer asked us to lay a 4 inch drainage pvc under the base and connect the gutter so the roof rain water did not drag tree debris from the roof onto his new Brick Pavers.
Now that the base has been prepared we Snap a chalk line to make sure the bricks are laid straight and the pattern can continue their pattern around the corner to the patio area. Below we are laying Flagstones Patriot Brick. This is a two brick combination one small square and one larger rectangle. The customer decided on the T-Pattern for this project.
The wet looking pavers on the left of these photos is what the pavers will look like for 1-2 years after applying the new sealer. This is what really brings the color out of the brick and helps protect from fading. The sealer also acts as a stain and dirt resistant layer to help wash the pavers with every rain fall almost making them maintenance free.
The main sealer we use is Seal N Lock Super Wet Look. This is a professional grade sealer and is the best we have found over the years. It is a water base so it will not produce the dreaded white haze. Seal N Lock Paver Sealer also has mold and mildew inhibitors as well as a hardener to lock in the sand and prevent wash out.
Below is a break down of materials used to complete this job.
Above you will see the Brick Paver Border laid in. Under this border is 4 inches of concrete acting like a wall holding the inside pavers in place by not allowing them to move. The concrete combined with the compacted base and sanding the joints is where the pavers get their durability and missing any of these will limit the life of the work.
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Now we are starting to cut the excess brick leaving just enough room for our one brick border. We are simply Cutting away the excess from where the series left us extra brick pavers outside the desired area.
Well we are back after allowing the brick pavers to dry for two weeks and 3 days with no rain or sprinklers. Giving the brick time to get the inner moisture out of the brick is very important. We want the brick really dry when we put the sealer on the brick. Knowing the brick is dry the sealer can be soaked into the brick. If the brick is not completely dry a chance exists that you will get a permanent white haze on the brick that will ruin the look of your pavers. Pictured Above Ronnie is applying the Brick Paver Sealer with a LPHV (Low Pressure High Volume) Sprayer.